We checked in with chef Kyoo Eom's modern Penn Quarter brasserie to see what the dishes are to get at this D.C. restaurant.
Indeed it has a long name—Poste Moderne Brasserie and Bar, but parsing that name reveals the several (and subtle) aspects of this restaurant’s identity. “Poste” alludes to its historic site—once the mail sorting room of a grand circa 1841 post office. “Moderne” signals a respect for contemporary tastes and expectations, while “Bar” reminds that happy (and late) hours generate a glam and sociable vibe.
But “Brasserie,” the key word here, honors French-accented cooking by new chef Kyoo Eom. This rising star, with two Daniel Boulud spots on his resume, occupies the dramatic open-kitchen stage, dispensing aesthetic plates with surprising touches. Think French onion soup, Gruyère of course, but enriched by tender beef short rib or his tuna tartare with black garlic and potato strings, duck ravioli with caramelized onions, foie gras with hazelnuts and sangria gelée.
Entrées range from burgers and steaks to honey-glazed eggplant or salmon with sunchoke and citrus beurre blanc, each with distinctive impact. Dazzling desserts (like a chocolate tart and pumpkin profiterole) confirm the wisdom of bringing on board chef Kyoo’s former colleague, smart pastry chef Casto Unson.
Thanks to a succession of fine Poste cooks, a garden graces the inner-block courtyard here in Penn Quarter. Rest assured, locavores, the current team intends to harvest ingredients come Spring, a ritual so established there’s no need to add “and Garden” to the name.
555 8th St. NW, 202.783.6060