Previously the creative designer at Emanuel Ungaro, Esteban Cortázar now has his own fashion label, with his latest collection hitting the runways during the last Fashion Week in Paris. Where sat with the self-proclaimed perfectionist to talk about his inspirations and the fashion capital.
Made up of 18 pieces, his latest collection is “very graphic and graceful in the movement, it is about softness and calmness”, explains the young Colombian designer. Focused more than ever on creating pieces that his clients can purchase the moment they are shown on the runway, Esteban shows two small capsule collections per year. He does not create spring/summer or autumn/winter collections but creates rather, as he describes it, “more [of] an eternal collection."
"It all started with net-a-porter having worldwide exclusivity of the collection online and now Maria Luisa is the first one to have the collection offline in Paris, and we always thought of a woman who is all over the world, not just in Paris, in Hong Kong, in New York. And right now it’s winter somewhere and summer somewhere else so it’s not about spring, summer, autumn or winter, it’s about pieces that work all-year-round and can be trans-seasonal. The idea is what you see on the runway is already in the store to buy, you don’t have to wait for six months. It used to work but now I don’t think it does; with certain websites you see things immediately so by the time they are in stores it feels old.”
His latest collection, as he explains, is an “exploration of angles and curves and lines of the body."
"When I started to sketch I started to see that the pieces reminded me of a stingray in the water so I wanted to have something that would explain that thought process. For me it’s all about continuation, it’s all about building a language. It’s not about going from one place to the next.”
Featuring attitude-induced pieces in metallic tones, Esteban’s versatile collection will take you from morning to evening and from Paris to New York with fashionable ease. The collection features slim-line silhouettes and includes sexy shift dresses that can be dressed up with sexy heels or dressed down for a cooler day with biker boots and chunky accessories.
You can discover the pieces exclusively at Maria Luisa at Printemps.
What Esteban Cortázar loves about Paris ...
I love to have lunch at Le Marché des Enfants Rouges. It’s my favourite! (39 rue de Bretagne, 3rd)
I love the Marais in general, it is so much fun. I love Place des Vosges and Nanashi. (57 rue Charlot, 3rd)
Montmartre. I love the view from there. Sometimes I just go for the view and just sit there and take in the city because it’s so beautiful.
Candelaria [speakeasy bar accessed through a taco restaurant]. It’s a cool place, especially how you enter it. (52 rue de Saintonge, 3rd)