Le Fou Frog

The utterly unpretentious atmosphere at Le Fou Frog might cause you to lower your gastronomic expectations, but this is, after all, a tiny nugget of France transplanted in Kansas City’s River Market neighborhood, and chef Mano Rafael knows his way around a kitchen. The menu of traditional bistro fare and haute cuisine changes frequently to take advantage of seasonal ingredients and may include such over-achieving items like lemon sole rolled with smoked salmon and served with a sauce of artichoke hearts, mushrooms, truffles, fish stock, champagne and cream. Hors d’oeuvres come both hot and cold, and the list includes such delicious surprises as this melt-in-your-mouth torchon of monkfish liver—foie gras from the sea.

Open for lunch Thursday, for dinner Tuesday-Sunday. 400 E. 5th St., 816-474- 6060, www.lefoufrog.com.