The chiefs of old retreated to the bays and fishponds of this coastline for food and replenishment. Modern resorts have since greened the stark lava coastline, and well-preserved petroglyph fields (Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve) coexist with contemporary amenities. Sun-seekers arrive from all over the world to enjoy the beaches, shops, galleries and three championship golf courses, as well as topnotch restaurants highlighting the island’s agriculture and seafood. From Kua Bay to Kauna‘oa Beach, the Pu‘ukoholā Heiau and beyond, the coast extends north to the plantation towns of Hāwī, Kapa‘au, and, at road’s end, the Pololū Valley Lookout. There, the wild cliffs of the Hāmākua Coast appear like a mirage.